Costa Rica 2010-2011, Centro Americano. Adventures and travels of Greg L. Miller and Kelly Carter-Miller. We are posting the second part of the story. Once a week there will be new posts for anyone who might be interested. PURA VIDA. Thanks and enjoy!

Day I of the Howler Monkey expedition. Lagoon & La Esquina

The days are beginning to drift just as a twig is pulled by currents in a stream.  Colors, people, whispers, and laughs blur into one experience. What defines the opaqueness of life and its journey?  Of late my wife and society says it's to work and to bequeath your living onto others.  Even in paradise I can't escape this equerry for I'm reminded every day what is expected of me as I watch a developing country grow.  Deep down I would like nothing more than to help society become the best it can become as they slowly build globally.  For this reason I tentatively make plans to head back to Washington DC early next year.  At the moment paradise is a place meant to be savored like a fine Merlot.  Paradise is a place to escape.  Some can escape a few days, others weeks or months, and the lucky their whole life.  The convocation of paradise imbues images of palm trees swaying as cool breezes briefly touch on ones hair or to sift through fine golden sand in your toes as you watch breathtaking sunsets play a vast array of colors in the sky.  Yet for others it's to drink and dance via vibrant music that uplifts one soul as their companion is merry.  If these things define paradise then this is its epoch.  But even in paradise people live and die and there is a hierarchy of both predators and prey.  A balance between living the good life and to struggle to feed yourself and your family.  Paradise can only be defined in subjective terms depending on who uses it and in what context.  This is a paradise but in this vast world there are many types that come in all shapes and sizes.  When one stands on the beach watching the sunset one eye has to be open for critters that are extremely dangerous such as poisonous insects that can cause instant system shock and death, or when a person swims they have to watch out for octopuses and whirlpools, not just sharks such as Jaws.  When a person dances they must be weary of human predators that wish nothing more to pounce on their next victim for how else do some bring food home to their families?  Even in paradise one must remember the rules of nature and man.  As Locke and Hobbes once argued, what is real in regards to society and man?  Is life fair and prosperous or is it short and brutal?  The answer my friend lies somewhere in between both spectrum's. 

Do to the heat and physical exertion the days have slowed down and three days could be construed as one.  On day one we were thwarted as big vultures watched us with beady hungry eyes.

The sun pounded on our flesh as it unyielding drew forth our sweat
in torrent waves.  Naively we figured monkeys and exotic creatures
would be out in 90 degree temperatures, but alas, only us silly
humans were for animals such as monkeys come out only when it's
not hot.  We should have received this innate knowledge as we
watched both dogs and cats lurk in the shade but learning the lore of the land comes only with experience.  Needless to say day one of the monkey expedition was spent walking and roasting similar as how a chicken roasts at Kentucky Fried Chicken before lunch hour.


















The People of Costa Rica made many bridges for Monkeys to cross the roads such as this.














During our fruitless endeavor we did come across a spectacular crystal blue lagoon, formally known as Parue San Fransisco, within Santa Cruz.  At the end of the lagoon was an estuary rumored to contain many crocodiles so we called it a day.  





























After walking a grueling five miles we made it back to our town and ate dinner at a pizzeria called La Esquina.  La Esquina allured us by authentic brick ovens that engulfed the senses with smells that instantly reminded you of Tuscany or Venice.  Kelly thought this restaurant was nice but I found it a little lacking as the waitress served us with a child on her hip and often forget the small things such as ice and plates. 




 
My sun burn was not so great and it made it harder to move around.  Even with sun tan lotion half my body looked like a cooked lobster. I flayed my little toe from all the hiking so I decided I needed a day to recoup and look at my shells, I think I read some where that predators are drawn to the smell of blood and this place most definitely has its share of predators.

 





End of day one of the Monkey expedition.

The perfect beach, May 29, 2010

Its Saturday and the cyclone is gone!  I packed my camera, some water, got Kelly ready and it was time to find both monkeys and the mythical perfect beach.  For any future travelers I found that if I put my wallet and camera in a Ziploc bag they will be protected from the environment.  Seeing as how we are ten degrees south of the equator we applied much sun screen on and sprayed our bodies with insect repellent.  The mosquitoes carry something bad that could cause Dengue Fever, something I don't want to experience.  After walking down the beach towards the rocky outcropping that resembles a peninsula we found some trails that Kelly was nervous to approach for she was worried about the mosquitoes.  I figured that within a couple of hundred yards we would reach the beach so much talked about.  The other direction on the beach leads towards a estuary and a national park that is told to have the crocodiles and wildlife.  We decided that it would be better to hire a boat taxi when the time comes instead of trekking that direction on foot.  Not understanding the vast time differences between high tide and low tide we marveled how we were able to make good time down the beach.  High tide occurs around 4 pm and most of the beach disappears before sunset.  Low tide is around 10 pm and 10 am.  On the way we found a big Iguana lizard eating lunch!


On the way we encountered many small crabs and millions of crab prints.


Finally we made it the end of the beach where the trail began.


My hunch was right and after a few hundred yards we made it to a hill that overlooked Playa Tamarindo.  On the way we encountered Mag Pie Blue Jays and mutant squirrels that coasted in the the canopy.  At this point I took off my shirt for in paradise nobody cares what you look like and shirts start feeling like dead weight from sweat.


After this was a clearing where we found a ruined pavilion that overlooked our town in the rain-forest.

We dauntingly had a water break and then continued on the journey to find the perfect beach.  At this point I have to point out that I walked for a bit which I couldn't do six months ago.  New Zealand was great in that it started conditioning me and I can now slowly walk for half the day.  Its still a struggle to sit on hard wood anything but it is what it is.  On the way down the hill towards the fabled beach we encountered a crab who was lost.  These crabs are migrating to the beach to reproduce and there are many.



The crab was scared of us unlike future crabs we experiences later in the evening.  These crabs are called Land Crabs.  On the way we encountered some developing spots and Kelly found  one of them having open house.  We couldn't take pictures and they thought we were rich.  We decided to not say any different and let them assume what they wanted.  Needless to say we had a nice chat with a African dude who was very educated.  The flats were selling for $900,000 and they were very impressive.  We were then told that the fabled beach had a name!  Its called Playa Langosta and here it is.  I have to admit that in my book it is 10 out of 10 and I felt like I was in paradise.  It is now our special place.


There were spots filled with clean black sand indeed!  Needless to say high tide began and before we knew it waves bigger then five feet were crashing into us and we were soaked!  It happened fast and the water felt as warm as a bath.  Thankfully the camera was safe and we started our long trek back home.

After taking showers we were famished from the hike and heard rumors of a nacho place that advertised nachos bigger then your ass.  You gotta love the sense of humor of Ticos!



The music was wonderful, cute cats and crabs jumped on your lap and played tag with your toes and the Nachos were the size of your ass!  We ended up staying for drinks for it was the perfect way to end a tremendous day.  As they say down here in Costa Rica, its the good life.  Stay tuned for Mondays expedition into monkey land.  Ciao- Greg and Kelly Carter Miller

The tropical cyclone has been ebbing and the sun has started to shine.  There is a quiet murmur throughout the streets and shops that tomorrow will be sunny and hot.  Since traveling with my wife we seem to coincidentally be ushered in with rain ever since we trekked in the Yucatan back in 2005 and visited the rain temple of the Mayans in Coba, Mexico.  We were experiencing a cyclone passing through which poured forth rain with tremendous velocity.  This did not make me falter for the power of the umbrella is great and we might as well live for today for we never know what tomorrow will bring.  To be honest I figured it was normal because we are in a rain-forest and why wouldn't it not rain in a rain-forest?  Thus my comments on crocodiles and the such.  We are located on the Pacific coast in a rain-forest within the ring of fire.  We are two hours away from the volcano's and border Nicaragua and Panama.  It is a quaint town full of friendly folk, many of them Americans and Europeans who decided for whatever reason that Central America was going to be their next home.  Many people think we are on island but we are not.  Costa Rica is in Central America, or as they would say Centro Americano.  We also have cloud forests, dry forests, coral reefs, mountains, and well just about everything else you could imagine.  This place feels like something out of a book and movie and Jurassic Park was filmed here.  Surprisingly there is little crime outside of petty theft and there is no military, just a whole bunch of cops.  Revolution is not in the air for the locals coexist peacefully with both tourists and foreigners. We heard from the surfers and Rastafarian's that the beach past the peninsula was to die for and that it had fine black sand.  Kelly started to spy this as she walked solo earlier this week which just added more weight on us having to see it.  We decided that it would be nicer to experience this tomorrow in the sun so we ended up trekking down the main road and found a restaurant that sold pizzas called Pizzeria D'Oro.  Sunset occurs at six in the evening.


We watched the pizza be made from scratch and it was delicious.  During this time we had a few drinks that we mixed in orange juice for we wanted to wander the beach after dinner in between the short bursts of rain, before we experienced the reggae bar.  After coming from New Zealand and its alcohol ban in regards to drinking in public places we thought it would be cute.  To cut down on expenses we decided that it would be prudent to drink before going to the bars and to only go to bars that advertised ladies night.  In other words Kelly drinks for free, entertainment is free, and we only pay 4 US dollars a night on me.  Marquette Michigan can't beat this when it comes to night life.  We decided that we wanted to experience local beverages so we bought a ten dollar fifth called Guaro which tastes like water.  On the way we walked past giant frogs and small lizards.


We then made our way down to the beach but it was to dark to take pics.


After walking the beach we then headed to a world known bar called Babylon, note the hedonistic names and qualities for its a recurring theme.


There were many people from all walks of life having fun and dancing.  There must have been around 100 people and you could tell that many man really wanted to hook up with females and to put it simply it was FUN!  After Kelly had three free drinks and I had two Imperial beers it was midnight and ladies night was over.  Saying goodnight to some locals we met we called it a night.  Guess what we are doing every Thursday night?  Stay tuned in for the perfect beach tomorrow.